There are only a few forms of Botanical Vitamin A on the market. One of the botanical vitamin a alternatives we use in Roccoco is Mothbean or Vigna Acontifolia Extract as it is known. Vigna aconitifolia or "Moth bean" is an annual herb belonging to the Leguminosae family. The pods contain 4 to 9 seeds which contain nutritive proteins. Colors of the seeds are light brown or yellow brown. This drought-resistant plant is native of India and Pakistan. Mothbean has proven cell regulating benefits as well as collagen stimulating effects on the skin. Efficacy tests have demonstrated that Mothbean Extract acts both on epidermis and dermis to fight the effects of aging.
Vitamin A is a fat soluble vitamin that has powerful anti-aging benefits. The benchmark for anti-aging treatments is Retinol. Retinol has the most published studies on it's ability to reverse sun damage and photo aging. Unfortunately Retinol can be unstable and difficult to formulate with.
Mothbean Extract (Vigna Acontifolia Extract) has proven effects with skin rejuvenation that are remarkably similar to retinol. It's mechanism of action was equivalent but it showed much better skin tolerance and less irritation. The other benefit is there is no increase in sun sensitivity, which can occur with the introduction of Vitamin A.
The main well-known effects of retinol are the regulation of keratinisation, the stimulation of DNA synthesis and the improvement of collagen synthesis. Mothbean Extract has had studies done that confirm the retinol like effect of Mothbean in clinical studies: stimulation of epidermis cell renewal and reduction of wrinkles.
This growth factor enhances proliferation of keratinocytes. Mothbean Extract stimulation growth factors that helps the skin to renew itself and look younger. The end result is smoother and brighter skin. Regulation of skin turnover is especially important for acne as there is disorganization of skin cells with acne.
As we age we lose collagen dramatically and the skin loses volume and flexibility. The skin requires new collagen to remain form and supple. Mothbean extract enhances the release of soluble factors which are able to stimulate collagen synthesis.
Proven anti-wrinkle activityA clinical test has demonstrated that after a two-month course of treatment, a cream containing five percent of the new active ingredient showed an anti-wrinkle efficacy in the crow's foot area which was as good as that of the benchmark, a cream containing 2.5 percent encapsulated retinol. In vitro and in vivo tests have also proven the ingredient's ability to stimulate epidermal cellular renewal, and dermal collagen synthesis.
There are 2 forms of this ingredient in cosmetics. The first is less concentrated and is required to be used at 3-5%. The second version is the concentrated version which is 12 times more concentrated than the liquid version. The normal use of this is 0.21% – 0.35%.
We use the first version in Dermal Lift Serum and Milk Repair. The concentrated version is used Decongesting Porefection and Pomegranate Moisture Surge. As a result when you use Decongesting Porefection and Pomegranate Moisture Surge you can have a slight breakout due to the retinoid activity concentration. This is known as a retinoid reaction and does go away. We do not get this reaction with Milk Repair and Dermal Lift as the Botanical Vitamin A is not as strong. We use a higher percentage in the acne products to regulate cell turnover which is essential for managing the condition.
Mothbean is an innovative ingredient that rivals Retinol in it's capacity to regenerate the skin with minimal irritation and no issues with safety at all for pregnancy or breastfeeding.